Would someone help me identify this motor

[paulmars]

Its a GE, but they say that this line was sold to Regal Beloit. I called Regal Beloit and they cant find it in their system. A second call a month later to GE confirmed that they did sell it to them, and then a second call to Regal Beloit, and they still cant find it in their system, but did say that some lines they bought, were discontinued and all documentation was disposed of. I could guess how to wire it up, but would rather not. If anyone is interested in helping me, i will post more info and some pics.

>p

 

[edison123]

Yes, we are interested. Please do.


Muthu

http://www.edison.co.in

 

[paulmars]

THERMALLY PROTECTED
1/2hp, 115v, 60(sinewave symbol) 1*7 4A
1725RPM 70°C CONT ** CB135D
CODE G APR2 MADE IN U.S.A.

* between the one and seven on the second line from top, is a round circle with a vertical line bisecting it. The line possibly passes thru the circle slightly at both ends. It does not look like the zero in the 60 (second line), or the O in PROTECTED, its completely round, not oval/elongated, and smaller then the 0 and O.

** Single character that I cant identify. Almost looks like a small letter P with a short tail.


Elsewhere on mtr:
GENERAL ELECTRIC
5kc40ht 12s
SA* LR22286

*SA inside a C

 

[paulmars]

.

 

[paulmars]

I have a third pic, but each time I post it, nothing happens.

 

[paulmars]

It took that post, so I'll try the pic again...

 

[jraef]

The pictures are there.
If Regal Beloit thinks the motor is dumped, I'd believe it. That appears to be an OEM appliance fan motor of some sort. If the OEM no longer exists, chances are very good the R.B. would not have kept up production or records on that motor when they bought the GE line. It happens.

The device on the side says "Norge" on to, which is an old and now defunct refrigerator manufacturer. They were bought and sold several times and from records appear to be part of the history of Maytag. That device, although apparently wired into the motor, is likely part of the refrigerator system it came from. If you are planning on using that motor for some other purpose, that device, whatever it is, may not be necessary. So for a 115V 1 phase (that is the circle / slash symbol you couldn't identify), you will have a hot and a neutral wire, polarity is irrelevant, so it shouldn't be too difficult to get the wiring right.

But being that Norge ceased to exist in 1978, that motor is already at least 30+ years old and was not likely built to last that long. Hope you don't want to work it too hard.

By the way, although I can see you are a member in good standing, this is likely to be recognized as a DIY project so expect this thread to be deleted in short order. Hopefully you see it first.


"If I had eight hours to chop down a tree, I'd spend six sharpening my axe." -- Abraham Lincoln
For the best use of Eng-Tips, please click here -> faq731-376

 

[paulmars]

Ive asked many Qs here with no problem, but the last topic I started was deleted, and now you say maybe this one too? If I should not be asking Qs about motors and how to hook them up, I'll stop. However, I've found no other forum that has been as helpful. U guys rock.

I was thinking those two wires to that device were hot and neutral and that short blue is gnd. So, I can just try that and see what happens. That device, its interesting, its a switch. I cant open it up with out breaking it. On the very bottom of it, which you cant see in the pics, there is a piece of plastic that sticks out and when pushed in it clicks like a momentary switch, So, when I release it clicks back out. This is doen with the device removed from the mtr. When the device is mounted to the motor as you see it, that switch is pushed in, so its always "on" or "off" or whatever. Cross ur fingers while I hook it up and throw the power.

 

[ScottyUK]

Is there any possibility that the microswitch is associated with the starting winding? Most centrifugal switches on old British motors tend to be inside the casing, but that one has the look of being mounted on a radial projection from the extended bearing housing. Looks like a lot of effort to go to just to mount a microswitch unless it was associated with the motor.


----------------------------------

If we learn from our mistakes I'm getting a great education!

 

[waross]

If this was a fan motor for a clothes drier it would have an extra set of N/O contacts on the starting switch to turn off the element if the motor is not turning.

Bill
--------------------
"Why not the best?"
Jimmy Carter

 

[LionelHutz]

It appears the switch was used for the starting capacitor, which does not appear to be on the motor so it was likely mounted in the machine.

The shaft does appear to be for a dryer belt.

 

[paulmars]

The switch no way relates to the shaft. All those terminals on that switch, I see scrapes marks on two, not including the two that the mtr wires are attached to. So, two in and two out. Looking more closely at that switch, if something mounted elsewhere had a lever sticking towards and at right angles to the mtr shaft in just the right position, if it moved down, it might deflect that metal thing that the switch is pushed against. It looks kinds weird to do it that way, but maybe if they were trying to use an existing switch. I'll test that switch unit with my DVM, and post back, if this thread is still here, that is. Since there are only three wires going into the mtr, I think there was no external capacitor. Right/wrong?

 

[jraef]

Hmmm... looking again and seeing that the wires go directly into the motor itself, I'm thinking maybe this is an old Repulsion - Induction motor (RS-IR or Repulsion Start - Induction Run). There would be a centrifugal switch that would short out the repulsion field brushes once it got to speed. This was an old old alternative to a Capacitor Start motor, they provided more starting torque which sort of fits with a Dryer application, especially a big one that might be fully loaded when starting. I've only seen a few RS-IR motors in my day on old old air compressors and sawmill equipment. They were all bigger and uglier than that, but this may be a "consumer appliance" version.


"If I had eight hours to chop down a tree, I'd spend six sharpening my axe." -- Abraham Lincoln
For the best use of Eng-Tips, please click here -> faq731-376

 

[paulmars]

jraef

If that be the case, am I still safe hooking it up to power using those two wires as hot and neutral?

 

[ccjersey]

A good place for the DIY hobby questions is The electric motor and generator board of the SmokStak old engines website. Your hobby questions are welcomed and the response is usually pretty good. Not the level of expertise there as on this site, but helpful none the less.

http://www.smokstak.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=6

 

[paulmars]

tks, ccjersey

 

[paulmars]

I registered at smokstak yesterday and still waiting for approval. Meanwhile I removed that switch. I need to backtrack on two things I said. One: more of the terminals have what could be faint scratches from connectors. Two: that switch that is depressed when it is attached to the mtr, there is more to it. I can push it down and feel it click, then when i release it, it pops back up. There are springs inside the mtr case holding it up and some other levers inside that I see move then I press/release it. I can spin the mtr by hand and after I let go, it will continue for 2 to 2 1/2 revs. With then lever pushed down, there is a little more drag and I can only make it spin 1 to 1 1/2 revs. Not much, but definitely more drag. What is the worst that would happen if I connected those two mtr wires to 115vac?

 

[ScottyUK]

Based on what you've found I think I might have been on the right track in a previous post.

A single phase motor can essentially start and run happily in either direction. It won't inherently start itself though: instead it will sit and buzz and get hot until it burns out. To overcome the starting problem a second winding is added which serves two purposes: one is to ensure it starts, and the second is to ensure it starts in the same direction each time. Some motors do this by using a capacitor (capacitor start motors), other use a high resistance / low inductance winding (split phase motors). In both cases the starting winding is often rated for short term duty only and once the motor runs up to speed a switch opens the connection to the starting winding to prevent it burning out. Usually the switch is based around some kind of spring-loaded mechanism mounted on the shaft which uses centrifugal force to operate a lever which in turn operates the switch. I am fairly confident this is the purpose of the switch you can see.

There should be a third (and possibly a fourth) connection to the windings somewhere. Three wires would indicate non-reversing while four would suggest a reversing type. This is in addition to any frame earth or ground connection.

If you connect the mains direct to the starting winding then you'll likely be in the market for a new motor.


----------------------------------

If we learn from our mistakes I'm getting a great education!

 

[Motorwiz]

This motor should be out of a Norge dryer. The model number breaks down to either a split phase or cap start motor, I do not have my book with me to confirm what one. The switch on the back along with the start button on the front of the dryer completed the start circuit for the motor. The switch on the back of the motor often, but not always, closed the circuit for the gas valve or heating element.

Looking at the pictures it looks like somebody has clipped wires to the motor windings. For a split phase motor you need at least three wires; Common, Run, and Start.

I do not believe that a wiring schematic is available for these motors as support for was limited due to the fact that they were an OEM product and not normally available outside that channel. However, you can trace the windings out with an ohm meter and with a good motor manual figure out how to run it.

Good luck and let me know if I can be of further assistance.

 

[paulmars]

I think your right ScottyUK. There are just the three wires coming out of the mtr. There is string in the mtr. I can see its part of the mtr. I think this is very old. The back of the Norge switch, says GE. Well, unless I get a schematic or wiring diagram, I think i'll have to give up.

tks all,
>p