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Mitigate strength reduction when welding after heat treatment 1

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Zeyneb

Automotive
Jan 12, 2024
12
Hi there,

I'm new to this forum. I am a DIY mechanic who also has an interest in metalworking. I hope my topic is interesting enough for this forum. As it is primary used for professionals sharing knowledge on work projects.

Alright this is the rear axle beam on my 905 kg, FWD car. A 1997 Toyota Starlet.

solid_beam_axle_eisvbq.png


The rear axle is equipped with a panhard rod. I purchased a performance panhard rod but I found out that the bushing on the panhard is wider than the original from Toyota.
panhard_mounting_kwkeii.png

This is the mounting point on the rear axle for the panhard. The shoulder needs to be 6mm longer for the wider bushing to fit on. The axle beam is a U shape with a wall thickness of 4mm. At the panhard mounting point the U shape is reinforced with another U shape over it.

The panhard mounting shaft does penetrate through the axle beam and is welded on both ends. I think the section that goes through the axle beam is about 8mm thick. The picture below shows how the rear end of this shaft is welded on the axle beam.
panhard_mounting_rear_side_ownov2.png


My objective is to grind away this shaft and redesign the shaft with the correct dimensions. But how to make this strong enough to be used on a car? As suspension parts are usually mounted with class 10.9 fasteners, that strength is something to aim for. So at least a yield strength of 1040 N/mm2. Alloys such as 4140 and 4340 must be heat treated in order to reach such a strength. I also know that with welding I will reverse the strength of the heat treatment in that area. But to what kind of depth? Are there ways to mitigate the reduction of the strength during welding? Like selecting a specific alloy for this. I do have a TIG machine and ER80S-D2 filler rods. Would that seem fine for this?

Thank you very much for your attention and time.
 
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That shaft was welded to the sheet metal beam without post heat treatment. That connection is much more highly stressed than the threaded end. I think you would be ok to weld.

But! That's a lot of buildup to do. Have you considered shrinking, gluing, or tack welding a 6mm sleeve on to it?
 
That performance panhard rod came with an 6mm extension ring to be put on this shaft. But securing the bushing with two washers on both ends and a nut will only have a few threads engaged on the threaded end. Not something I want to rely on for a car.

I prefer to design a new shaft for this. I don't mind if I slightly over-engineer this. More advice is very welcome!
 
What does the "performance panhard rod" (PPR) claim for advantages ?

What size is the thread on the "mounting shaft" on the axle?

I wouldn't mess with the axle.
I'd adapt the axle end panhard rod to fit the axle.
Maybe narrow the PPR.
Maybe make a nut with an integral shoulder to:
- Fit snugly in the PPR
- Seat hard against the shoulder on the "mounting shaft" to reduce the possibility of applying bending loads on the "mounting shaft" threads.
- And engage most of the threads on the "mounting shaft."

Metric High-Strength Steel Coupling Nuts—Class 10

 
You are treating the issue from a material and welding standpoint. But the real catch is the design and that has taken years to firm up by automobile manufacturers.
You should not try such a thing as it could be dangerous because it involves both road and passenger safety.

DHURJATI SEN
Kolkata, India


 
The design it not different than what Toyota made. I just need to copy Toyota's design with a few other dimensions. The industrial revolution would not have happened if people shy away from each and every challenge. With my own research I learned for example that I do need to stress relieve the part at 60F lower than the tempering temperature.

Who would give me a recommendation for the specific steel for this shaft?
 
I would shorten the bushing and not try to re-invent the mounting pin.

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed
 
Sorry, I don't quite get the design issue (my own ignorance, or I don't follow what you've described), but in terms of welding and losing strength - you are going to likely gain strength in the chromoly shaft you use, at the expense of ductility. PWHT is done to temper/soften/stress relieve the weld. Do you know what the axle "upright" material is?
 
Are you sure that you've gotten the correct Panhard rod for your year and model?

Other flavors of Starlet seem to look like this:

Image_mo3tox.jpg
 
Hi MintJulep,

Yes, it is actually that Whiteline product that you shown. The model number is KPR020 and they stated that it is applicable to P9 Starlet cars. Which include my EP91 model from 1997.

I've read on a Starlet forum how people who bought the KPR020 rod deal with having insufficient threads left to put the nut on. Some do weld the nut in the tightened position.

Well, I'm going to continue looking to make that shaft and weld it in a way without a brittle HAZ. That suggestion from TugboatEng to use 4130 steel seems to be a good one because it has lower carbon content.
 
Good point on the section thickness. I have seen 3/4 4130 bar crack down its length after welding.
 
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