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I'd say take the plate that you show and extend part of it outside through a vertical slot in the brick. Beef up the studs and plates as necessary.

I'm getting emails for the seminar by Lou Geschwindner https://learning.aisc.org/local/catalog/view/product.php?productid=2435 AISC will typically post the video after the presentation that is free to view.

Unless painting the lines on the floor was part of your scope I would think you're in the clear.

You might also add a note about what to do for bigger gaps. Off-the-shelf shims are maybe 1/4" at the thick end. If the joists are wonky you might need something thicker. If you don't want them to add multiple pieces, which starts to look sloppy, you could add a note to cut a flat block to...

I'd guess that this is what the reviewer was looking for. To me, this is not a question about whether 102% is just as good as 100% given the circumstances, but rather who is the person who must make that determination. That's not a judgement for the reviewer to make; it's the responsibility...

a few thoughts: [ol 1] -sometimes its better to go with an absolute number for deflection. Keep the dl defl low because these will be actual cracks in your existing drywall upstairs. LL deflection can be a reflection of the existing stiffness of your house. -be mindful of the location of the...

Probably the cheapest option for you is to give a 'lifetime warranty" because there's a low probability that you'll have to make good on it. That's a shady option, though, in my opinion, and one that should not be offered. A better option would be to have a local engineer verify that this has...

tragic. I suspect that part of the discussion touch on the relative size and mass of container ships now versus 50 years ago.

I give this a yesbut. Yes. But... keep a very close limit on the deflection of the steel beam. My sense is that it needs to be very stiff relative to the concrete beam for this to work like you want it to. I think it's probably worthwhile to pick a point at the 1/4 span of the beam and chip...

When does an owner or builder say, "I want to spend more of my money today for the benefit of a future owner who I don't know." I think the answer is relevant to your situation. I expect that you're overestimating the actual live load (by a lot) and dead load (by some) and underestimating the...

No geotech I've ever met would consider rock exposed to elements and weathering to be adequate for the long term bearing of that toe. Nor sign off on the shear capacity of the rock resisting the key. I think a different type of wall system might be worth looking into.

I'm not in the UK, but I think that an engineer would consider the connection of the other materials as being more effective in carrying shear back into the masonry wall than the bearing point of the steel. I'm not convinced an engineer was involved in the projects you show. If I needed to...

There was verbiage on this in ASCE7-10 appendix C. Explicit explanation is removed in later editions. Also, IRC table 1604.3 note f:

I recommend you put mortar on the slab and set the blocks on that. In my opinion, it's better than the minor damage you do to the slab with multiple unnecessary holes.

I think that part 5(a) could be equal or more than the fee of the rest of it. It's a relatively straight forward exercise to add time for a site visit, measurement, and analysis. If it works, great! you're done. If it doesn't work, then all hell breaks loose. You spend time trying to find a...

Could you use an HSS 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 in the plane of the brick placed to support the offset ends of both lintels (or under a single continuous lintel)? The architect would have to devise cladding around it. This post might help you if distributing the load is advantageous for the framing below.

I just want to say that my hat's off to you and others who can make and keep a schedule. I feel like every week I'm transferring much of my to do list to the next page in my planner. To you original question, my approach is like Enable's in that it depends on who it is. I have some good...

I like to detail this with a cast in place padstone (which is a UK term that I haven't heard used in the US). This way, you distribute your load over a wider surface area on the brick, but have a material with properties you specify directly under your bearing plate. It also gives the...

I don't think this system needs the 2x4, but since it's there acting as a strut it has prevented some roof deformation that would have happened when the house was built. I'd say it was installed to aid construction and left in place. In your situation, I'd probably recommend a (2) 2x4...

I'm going to use a pipe that'll be as slender as I can make it, and hopefully not too ugly.