I would suggest contacting a local university or technical college. Many of them have some pretty high-end 3D printing equipment. I have quotes from a local source for 3D printed metal components. In our case, casting and machining was less costly, but I can see situations where additive...
Thanks for the question, but... you aren't going to get an answer without answering more questions. I'll go first:
1. What is PTR? I found this on Google: "Fiberglass-reinforced plastic (Fiberglass PTR)"
2. I would not trust tapped holes in fiberglass or plastic. VERY weak. Find another...
I bothers me when I hear non-engineers say something like "its got to be parallel". I have to explain there's no such thing as just "parallel". The word requires a measurement. How parallel? But when I hear engineers say that... well... we won't go there.
How parallel do you need it?
No...
You will see that type of pattern on caster wheel mounting plates and other devices. The intent is for the plate to fit two different bolt patterns, one pattern of smaller geometry and smaller bolts as well as another pattern of larger geometry and larger bolts.
A very hard-learned lesson on taper fits: The aspect ratio (length/width) MUST be correct. Some high speed rotating equipment in our plant was designed 30 years ago with rotary unions on each end of a shaft. These unions are changed out on a regular basis.
The engineer thought he would...
Simple answer - yes. If no specifications are given for an inner shape (ID, wall thickness, etc.) then solid is the only other option. Anything else should be considered as "not to print".
My experience from working with t-slotted materials is that in the long run, they just make things more complicated, and actually take more time to complete an assembly. If you have a good drawing and the right tools, standard materials are the way to go. T-slotted structures have their place...
Fiberglass is a non-conductor, and it is available in standard structural shapes. T-slots would not work well in fiberglass, but it is relatively easy to fabricate using standard methods (drilled holes, aluminum fillet plates, fasteners, etc.)...
OP,
Look at the option of LOW HEAD socket head cap screws. I have used them in many applications. They eliminate the need for countersunk screws, which ALWAYS cause problems. From McMaster:
All possible. None impossible. Every cutting method has its own issues as far as edge quality, but since both are based on simple x,y motions, the geometry is feasible.
I say again:
"Talk to the gearbox manufacturer and learn their recommended mounting method."
I do not understand the hesitance of today's young engineers to pick up the phone and talk to a live person at a manufacturer's office. They have Application Engineers there. Those guys have ONE JOB -...
My concern is alignment. There is no way your two mounting points will be in perfect alignment. You are placing your gearbox in a bind.
Talk to the gearbox manufacturer and learn their recommended mounting method.
I've used helicoils for similar applications for years.
Key locking inserts are a step up and work really well.
Both are available as stainless steel if that is an issue.
I think you will find that bends created on press brakes will be much straighter than bends created in a rolling action (like on continuous gutters). If the entire bend can fit within the physical limits of a press brake, it should produce "straighter" results than rolling.