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@Koda94 Doing as you said gave me the results in post #7. In that the Datum sticks up vertically, perpendicular to the dimension and not inline. I wonder if there is a setting I don't know about.

And if using Solidworks, there is no cute trick to attach the datum in line with the .75? Rather to do so, will require me to attach it to the left side and drag it up to be inline. Just curious, for functionality if I ever wanted to change the .75 position I would manually have to move both...

Yeah. I noticed the B & C Datums on that screen clip. Could you explain how adding those differs from just using Datum A, if my single goal for now is just to position the holes horizontally? Are they both right, but adding B and C better if I want to do the entire part in GD&T?

As for putting inline, I was just reading page 56, figure 4-13. Like so?

@drawoh No. Never received any formal education, but I want to start playing around on the side to and familiarize myself. I can understand now why symmetry is incorrect now. So all replies are really helpful and thanks for taking the time to do so. @Koda94 Like so? I think I might have...

What happens, in an exaggerated case, if the part comes out at .5" width? Isn't the hole still going to be positioned at .375" from Datum A and be off center by a fair bit. I am reading from page 116. It looks like you can place a Datum on a circular feature in Fig. 7-16 to get a reference to...

I would like to start integrating some GD&T tolerances into drawings, and I figured I would start with symmetry and true positioning for features that I do often. One concept I am trying to figure out is how to specify a hole should be centered within the width of a part. Here the width is not...

Maybe. But unknown atm. Was this a breakout board you purchased? If so a link to it could help. If not a link to your driver and MCU could help.

PWM is a means of obtaining an analog signal from digital means. It is a technique that utilizes ratios and is independent of frequency. But the speed of your driver may be an issue. Just how many LEDs are you running, and what driver? Does the driver have it's own internal oscillator? These...

Something like [PB]--[/LS1]--[PROCESS LATCH]--->(VALVE 1 OPEN) [LS1]--[PROCESS LATCH]----->(VALVE 2 CLOSE) ----->(VALVE 3 CLOSE) ----->(PROCESS LATCH)(OTU) [PB]--[/LS2]--[/LS3]--[/PROCESS LATCH]----->(VALVE 2 OPEN)...

I think you wanted W49 Go Open / W50 Go Open to be outputs. You seemed to have corrected that before on the previous line, and might have missed it below. If you are using the same push button to do these two processes, then you will need another latch. As it stands when you press the button...

What's kinda cool is once you go back to those coding languages from ladder logic, is you have a new found grasp on latching, since that is most of what you have been doing.

Drawing/Sheetmetal would likely be all I need for basic features. I will likely keep my eye on any information of the development in that area.

I know this is very likely not a great place to bring this up as it is off topic, but have people been using Onshape as a competitive product to Solidworks? I have only caught wind of it recently, and it seemed like a good way to break into 3D modeling, but I haven't really considered using it.

That seems like loose tolerance for such a dimension, but yeah. That's what it reads. You'd think a limit tolerance of .005 to .010 would have sufficed.

^This. For sheet metal specifically, I build a block model of the shape I want and the use the "Convert to Sheet metal" Option; choosing a base-line-face. and then the corresponding corners for folds. Doing it this way gives you very tight dimensioning and quickly letting you switch from inside...

Well, we have 1 dud board now with three LED slots left. I could try a hot plate method to compare the results to. I just don't have any immediate good options to control paste thickness and placement. The best I can do is use the fine tip syringe.

Yeah, the inside of the holes are metal. I tried the above technique and it is 5 / 6. For the pads that don't conduct I add a little more solder and try again and it works. This way I haven't had any more shorts which is the good thing at least. But another annoying thing is I have tiny burn...

It's pretty crazy. I could have sworn they were pretty small dabs of solder paste. I only have access to several different tips for my soldering iron and a heat gun. The gun will melt the plastic on the device, but I have a tip that is fine enough to fit in the hole on those inside pins. I was...

Such as devices like the one below. Link If you check out Page [5 of 10] you can see a diagram of the device. Pins 6-8 and 9-11 are all mounted underneath. I had a small board made up using the recommended pattern in this document. I have tried using solder paste, by placing very small dabs...