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Thank you for your response X. Yes that was my original thought but they definitely don’t want a dropped beam and the span due to the space would be large.

I have a 40’ wood metal plated truss that is cantilevered on one end to span a rear porch. Plan is to remove bearing on cantilevered side and move it out to the end about 8’. Im having a local truss company run the design on the original truss bearing conditions and also for the proposed with...

Nice! That is what I was seeing...they used floor trusses which would require an extra bearing stud and the face nailed stud would need to get notched at the top where the horiz. ribbon board runs...I guess you could stop it short and just make sure you have enough nails. Very nice detail...

kissymoose...so you would need a stud to support the flr. joist and one nailed to the side of it all sitting on the existing top plate? I wouldn't think the nails would also take the vertical loads as well as the moment...maybe I am seeing it differently...would love to see a detail on this.

I recently had a look at a set of plans with a new 2x framed pony/cripple wall(about 12-18" tall) built on top of an existing 2x framed wall(9' tall) for a 2nd floor addition. They clearly just wanted more ceiling height on the first floor while constructing the new 2nd floor addition on top of...

It is all rafters no scissor trusses...throw in a small cupola up top so the ridge board isn't even continuous to each side of the hip intersections. The only beneficial thing I see is that its only 16' wide....at first glance the only solution I see(without going back to the architect) is to...

I have a little 16x28 partially enclosed outdoor pavilion. It has a typical hip roof with no ceiling framing(cathedral style). Really scratching my head on the best way to deal with thrust here. I have a full wall on one side (shorter side) and short little corner walls on the other short side...

Coming up with 7x7 grid at 2" o.c. for 1/4 sds screws(380lbs each)....calculated all shear forces in each screw from combined moments and shears about centroid of the fastener group...we have 2 sides and essentially each side should see half of the calculated load from each screw, correct? If...

KootK....thanks for the sketch! no need for screws on other side of splice? I see you are just saying it’s a filler on that side but I would image it would help with transferring the moment at either side of the splice. No? I agree with the screws especially for ease of...

I understand slippage is the main concern after the numbers check out but going with the smaller 1/4" SDS gives me about a 12x12 grid on each side of the splice....just seems like a lot of holes. Im Taking the moment and dividing by the height of the group to get the forces on the fasteners...

The plates work fine but I am struggling with the bolt spacings and pattern at the splice. I believe the NDS allows to multiply the least lateral value by the number of shear planes in the connection. (1880lbs) I have about 5k of shear and 10.5k-ft of moment to resist at the splice. Trying to...

I sharpened the pencil a bit. The load distribution on this beam is uniform to about mid-span then it goes trapezoidal (there is an interior bearing wall we will be using that reduces the trib area on this beam)down to zero at the end with the splice. I ran the 3-ply LVL with the full...

Go off on your own....I did it and although it was a scary leap of faith it was the best decision I made. I am around your age and the only thing I miss is having older more experienced engineers to talk shop with. There is plenty of work out there now and I know this will change but I would...

3-Ply 16” LVL currently spans about 20 feet. One support has to be moved 4’ out. They can’t install a new beam for a number of reasons so they proposed a partial flitch plate splice to extend the beam 4’ to the new bearing. We have about 680plf on this beam which gives me about 6 5/8” bolts at...