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Thanks for the reply(s). Anyhow..I have installed headers and 2.5" true duals.(gsmotorsports.com).lessening backpressure, increasing torque/hp.(even at low rpm)..maybe the x-pipe synched the pulses feels like a nice gain..have'nt dyno'd yet.

i did cool the fuel some.. ..wrapped my fuel rails in radiant heat barrier. estimate 30 degrees cooler..hard to measure accurately. maybe it is a placebo effect but seems "perkier" in heavy stop and go traffic 89F degree weather.

so reducing my entering fuel temperature from 150 degreesF to 50 degress F would have little or no effect? I would have thought as air temperature/humidity determines density of the air charge...that temperature of the fuel charge would affect same(density), thus creating a stronger explosion...

actually..I'm interested in increasing performance. If i thought cooling my fuel to say...45-50 degrees F would increase hp and tq I would do it.

I agree but i asked elsewhere ands got.. Be that as it may, when I was at Ga Tech, they had heaters on their fuel rails and they said it made more power. This was a future truck project out of a suburban. 5.3L with an AC induction motor spliced into the drivetrain. We beat all others in the...

Fuel injected 5.9Liter..50 psi fuel pressure. Fuel rail temp= approximinately 150 degrees. Installed dual exhaust. Found stainless fuel line is now 2" from catalactic convertor.. Mechanic says it is fine..shows me a device another car uses to heat it's fuel..said increases mileage. For...

Regardless of the reading you got in the supply duct, the reading at the return is the critical one imo. IE..you know that the unit is cooling..thus removing moisture from the air.. Verify that you have an 18-20 degree drop across the coil. Verify you are'nt pulling in an excessive amount of...

ah, well then i am back to square one. you decreased the size of the exhaust pipe by reducing the other restrictions and reduced backpressure at the motor. SO Unless someone shows me otherwise... If I have a 3" "restriction" at the manifold or at the Y of the exhaust pipe of a V8...

..wow i must be totally off. I had assumed that if you have a 3" collector...then rather you have a 3" dia straight piece of pipe or no pipe at all after the collector that there would be no difference in hp/torque output. ie...friction loss is not a factor here..and since there are...

am having a friendly debate. if you have a 3" y pipe tied into a 3.5" peice of straight exhaust pipe...no muffler..6' long.. would it have any advantage over a 3" y pipe tied into a 3" pipe of same configuration. ie...would not the restriction at the 3" collector...

why not just try out a couple of torque wrenches of different sizes.

We have a humidity problem on a 220 Ton CW system. The Chillers were recently replaced and new circulating pumps were added. The circulating pumps have a rating each of 375 GPM and TDH of 110 Ft. The return water has only a 6-7 F rise from the supply temperature *****sounds like too much...

A window unit for cooling..did not see that...assumed your "airhandler/filtration unit had a cooling coil and you would dump all of that air into the house. if you are going to run the furnace/filtration unit year round..what will control the humidity=mold during warm weather? especially...

....if you dump 3300 cfm in a 1000 sqft house you are looking at humidity problems that will increase/cause the mold problem. ie...the temp will satisfy too quickly..meaning the cooling coil won't stay on long enough to remove enough moisture from the air. if it was me i would go for the 1 or...

why not simply adjust your pump to 750 gpm and go read the results at the coils as a test...a quicky test would be take one of those non contact pointer thermometers and aim it at the supply and return grills as you walk around(with all tstats set to 55 or so.)..check your outside air temp too...

how do you know you are outputting 900 gpm? i bring it up cause you said you read the operating head with "gauges" (plural). 2 things wrong here.. 1. use one gauge...or you'll be off a bit. 2. verify your impellar size by reading shutoff head..then use pump curve to calculate gpm...

is the ahu controlled by a variable frequency drive? have vav boxes on the supply duct? belts tight? ..most commonly i see this problem on vfd driven ahu's..i usually get the control people to program the vfd so that it does not let the ahu respond so quickly to what ever static pressure...

****This is for diesel engine applications... I was just curious what benefit this would be in hvac applications. Red Line Water Wetter (liquid) is designed to provide improved metal wetting when added to water glycol mixes. Water has twice the heat transfer capability when compared to 50%...

auto zone is where i got it..most any auto parts place.

oh...as the title said..it is called water wetter.