10x10 Timber Beam Sagging in century old home 4

[N3M4N]

Hi all,

I am looking to find a viable solution to fix a cracked beam that is sagging. The issue is that there max 2 inch clearance between the beam and the furnace below, which is also the lowe point of the beam. see below

My proposed solution is to add 1/4" thick steel angle (i.e. lintel) below beam and support it at each end. The steel angle is the only thig I can think of to be able to slide between the beam and furnace, see below.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

 

[1503-44]

I'd at least put some wood filler in there.... doesn't look great.

 

[kipfoot]

From the full basement photo, it looks like the furnace is over on the right side. So, the cracks in the first photo look to be happening near the beam bearing at the foundation wall.

If this understanding is correct, I’d suggest that you keep the post shown in the first photo (adding a footing if there isn’t one) and add a post on the other side of the furnace. The whole floor system looks like it’s been propped up with posts over the years, so one more won’t hurt. Shortening the span of the 10x10 would help most, in my opinion.

 

[BAretired]

Adding a footing under the existing timber post seems unnecessary as it is so close to the wall. It would likely be sufficient to add one adjustable telepost on the opposite side of the furnace. Bearing on the grade slab is not the best practice, but in this instance, may be a reasonable compromise.

BA

 

[N3M4N]

So after spending some time in the basement this weekend I removed the insulation that was tucked around the beam and noticed something really scary, the beam was not bearing on the foundation wall at all, it was toe nailed to the rim joist. Has anyone seen this kind of construction?

secondly, the ends of the beam were rotten pretty badly. Question, why was the rim joist not rotten?

Ended up with cutting 3/4" thick sheathing the width of the beam and placed under the beam at the ends. Moved the 4x4 post next to the foundation wall. As suggested I provided another 4x4 post on the other side of the furnace to shorten the span of the beam. I didn't jack up the beam as I didn't wanted to split the beam or the fragile joists. so the issue with the floor not being level is unsolved for now.

Here are some additional photos

 

[1503-44]

Misdirected perpendicular bearing shear looks like it is causing the checking splittage. The beams end is toast. It is going to need a large bearing area. Probably including a large cap on the post.

Personally I would consider a concrete column extended out from the wall.

 

[BAretired]

BAretired[/color]]So after spending some time in the basement this weekend I removed the insulation that was tucked around the beam and noticed something really scary, the beam was not bearing on the foundation wall at all, it was toe nailed to the rim joist. Has anyone seen this kind of construction?
Not that I can recall. As you say, it is scary.

secondly, the ends of the beam were rotten pretty badly. Question, why was the rim joist not rotten?
The rim joist may have been protected with wood preserver (can't tell from the photo).

Ended up with cutting 3/4" thick sheathing the width of the beam and placed under the beam at the ends. Moved the 4x4 post next to the foundation wall. As suggested I provided another 4x4 post on the other side of the furnace to shorten the span of the beam. I didn't jack up the beam as I didn't wanted to split the beam or the fragile joists. so the issue with the floor not being level is unsolved for now.
The bearing condition at the end of the beam is even worse than before because of the dry rot. It might have been better to leave the existing post alone.

It would be best if the rotten wood could be replaced with sound material, but that would not be an easy thing to do. Hmm...needs more thought.

BA

 

[BAretired]

N3M4N,

Is there an update for this thread? Has the issue been resolved?

The rotten timber may have been caused by moisture attacking the wood. If the beam cannot be removed, at least the moisture source should be removed. Other locations should be inspected for the presence of timber rot as well.

Other timber beams should certainly be inspected to see whether or not they are bearing on the foundation wall as this constitutes a serious flaw in construction.

Removal of the timber beam over the furnace may be possible, but it would be difficult to accomplish. Methods can be discussed if you wish.

BA

 

[N3M4N]

BAretired,

I ended up placing 4x4 post on either side of the furnace to reduce the span of the beam. I inspected the other end of the beam and only one end is rotten.

what procedure did you have in mind to remove the main carrying beam, I personally don't think it can be done without removing the furnace first. each side of the beam has to be supported similar to removing a load bearing wall.

Let me know your thoughts.

 

[BAretired]

Removing the furnace is one possibility. Removing the beam from above is another. It would entail jacking the joists, cutting the deck, then cutting the beam out with a chain saw from above and replacing with a steel or glulam beam and providing joist hangers.

Neither approach is particularly appealing, but the rotten timber may continue to deteriorate over time.

BA