Adhesive for Attachment of Metal Stud Bottom Track 2

[KHoff]

I am working on a project that requires adding a landing extending from an existing mezzanine. This landing will be framed with light ga. studs and will be approximately 7'x5'. The studs will attach to an existing exterior wall on one end, and be supported by a new metal stud load bearing wall on the other end. The problem is that the client does not want to have any anchors/fasteners penetrate the slab because there is a heating system in the slab and he doesn't want it to be damaged. My suggestion was to use P.A.F. with a minimal embedment (1" or less) and if needed use GPR to locate the lines in the slab. Because the client is so sensitive to this issue, the architect is asking that I also look into using some kind of adhesive as an alternative.

Is anyone aware of an adhesive intended for this application? Concerns with the longevity of the bond? Suggestions on an adhesive to look into? Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.

 

[JAE]

I would never use adhesive in a pure shear application. No warm fuzzies in that situation. I like to sleep at night.



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[Ron]

What are the environmental conditions? Exposure? Temperature range?

With heating elements in the slab, it is implied that the slab gets cold, but then is warmed. I'd be concerned about thermal cycling using adhesives. You can locate the elements using infrared thermography more accurately than you can with GPR. I would do that and mechanically attach. You can draw the element locations on the top of the slab with chalk to show the location to installers and owner.

 

[KHoff]

The building is unheated, but they run the heating system in the slab continuously through the winter so I don't expect much temperature fluctuation. With that said, I still have concerns about the ability of an adhesive to maintain the bond long term.

 

[BridgeSmith]

Is the wall length only the 7' you mentioned? If so, can you make the bottom track strong and stiff enough that it can span across and be braced to the walls at the ends?

If that's not feasible, and you can't convince them to anchor into the slab, your best shot is to score some shallow grooves (a 1/4" deep should be enough) or at least roughen the surface of the concrete, put some fairly large holes in the bottom track (1/2" - 3/4"), and use some type of epoxy anchorage adhesive, like what's used for anchor bolts. Just as with the holes for the anchor bolts, thoroughly cleaning the surface of the concrete is of the utmost importance.