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Can central air-filtration include furnace output?

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jcoronat

Structural
Apr 5, 2002
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I’d like an opinion on the following scheme to incorporate my forced-air heating into a whole-house air-filtration system.

I have a house with 10,000 cu. ft. of living space, which I’d like to fit with a high-efficiency ventilating and air-purifying system. The objective is to obtain hospital-quality air. My wife suffers from severe asthmatic allergies, and the house is beset with various molds, dusts, and other pollutants that would require too much at this time to remediate at their source.

My plan includes an adjustable air-handling system that will at its maximum provide an air change every 1.5 minutes (say, 6700 cfm), and filter the entire output of the forced-air heating system before it’s distributed throughout the house. The heating plant is an 80,000 btu/hr. downdraft furnace, which I’d rate at about 6.5 (out of 10) for overall efficiency, capacity, and balance.

The idea is to construct a filtration unit about 2 ft. x 2 ft. x 5 ft. long (I’m guessing here) that will house a blower and filters. Since the filtration system will move more air than the furnace, I’ll route the furnace plenum directly into the filtration module, and add additional return-air ducts to feed the filtration blower from a central location in the house.

The house is small and space is at a premium, so the ducts and filter module are likely to go in the crawl space.

I figure I’ll run the system year-round, even though it draws through the furnace, and put prefilters on the furnace return and the other return-air intakes, and particulate and carbon filters in the filter module downstream of the blower.

My questions: (1) Is 6700 cfm a reasonable size to shoot for? (2) If the furnace is included in the filtration system, will its already-mediocre performance be reduced any further? (3) Do you see any problems with this idea?

Many thanks,
James.
 
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j - if you can keep a minimum 20% fresh air (660 cfm) you'll be in business, because I doubt your toilet and stove exhausts will match that. If you "power vent" the crawl space, make sure the fan is sucking from the space and not blowing into the space! Power vent via draw through, or just naturally ventilate the space. Just keep the poeple "bubble" positive with respect to crawl space, attic space, or any other non-conditioned space. -CB
 
quark - Thank you. I like the idea of using a dessicant, especially a regenerable one, but it seems likely that it would extend this system beyond my budget and complexity constraints right now. What I'll probably do is build the system without any additional moisture control and run if for a while. If I'm still having problems with moisture, dehumidification will become a priority.

ChasBean - My plan is to put an external duct system all along one side of the house at the rim-joist level (connected to a blower) and exhaust the crawl space, and on the opposite side, install a series of intake holes, like dryer-exhaust wall vents, to allow air into the crawl space. That should give me sufficient cross-ventilation.

I'm hoping that that, plus the attic ventilator, plus the positive-pressure in the living space, will do the trick.

Regards,
jcoronat.
 
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