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Deforming thread to lock the nut permanently

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edward995

Industrial
May 4, 2020
9
I have seen some method to distorting/deforming the thread to prevent it from loosening, like staking or center punch one or more of the nut faces. Is this way suitable for larger and higher strength nut?
I am trying to apply it on 1 1/2 inch nut (30HRC) , any idea what kind of machine should I use?

 
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If this a bolt/screw and nut assembly Nordlocks etc are needed under the bolt head too.

If this is a structural joint Assuring proper tightening and clamping is more important than slapping on a device to limit nut "loosening." It starts with evaluating the loads the fastener must resist. Be sure and incude nice flat faying surfaces, spotfaces for the bolt head and nut, a small chamfer for the bolt under-head radius etc, and etc.


If the intent is keeping the fastener in position so the wing doesn't fall off should the fastener loosen. Loctite is pretty darned good.

lock nuts of various configurations are commericially available.
 
To just bash the thread use an air chisel with a pointed bit.

Ted
 
use a good quality bolt and torque it properly
if the bolt is stretched the nut is tight and cant come loose
 
Are you worried about cyclic loading, vibration, or tampering?
Will there EVER be a reason to remove this?
There are many solutions from thread lock compounds (ranging from soft to damn near permanent) to prevailing torque nuts.
I would rather see an engineered solution to your issue.

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P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed
 
Staking is not a certain solution. We just opened up a steam turbine that had a set-screw in the trip valve back out and pass through the turbine doing major damage. The set-screw had been staked, but perhaps not very well.
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That set-screw will probably cost us $30,000 (US).

Johnny Pellin
 
Not unlike one of my personal car tuneups where I dropped a sparkplug and found out about a mile down the road that it had fallen into the one place it could do damage, and it shredded my rubber timing belt. Luckily, I stopped in time, and didn't wind up with spark plug impressions on my cylinder heads.

TTFN (ta ta for now)
I can do absolutely anything. I'm an expert! faq731-376 forum1529 Entire Forum list
 
The issue with lock wire is the holes that need to be drilled. And it doesn't really keep the nut from coming loose since it can back off a little. But it limits it just like a cotter pin would.


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P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed
 
I think OP should refine the question a little.

Nut loosening (and losing preload) or losing the fastener completly'
They both are (design or installation) failures in my mind.
In some circumstances keeping the loose fastener in place at least keeps the wing on or the suspension suspending for a bit longer.
Lost preload can cascade into a really ugly chain of failures like the coal mill catching fire, or running over my own crankshaft.
 
I have never had that happen but taking apart a piece of high speed rotating equipment and finding that the stud torqued-to-yield can be removed with my fingers results in some serious pucker factor.

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P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed
 
safety wire was a common procedure on military aircraft with built in holes, and there was a procedure how it was installed.
my brother was a turbine mechanic, that 40 years ago not sure what is being used now.
 
also the nut were locking type nut, not sure of the configuration type. some were in old military specifications sure there is a procedure.
 
It is still fairly common to use lock wire. We used in devices that were submerged in hot oil where there aren't a lot of options.

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P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed
 
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