Digital torque wrench 1

[Deltona]

Guys, what are your thoughts on these?

After years of using the 'click' type I recently got one and didn't really get on with it, it wasn't cheap at around $450 and I had hoped for more.

When using the tool it vibrated and beeped at 1Nm less than what was on the display so I set it higher, watched the numbers and released manually.

When set to 90 degrees I noticed it was clicking off at about 80' so I ditched it and went back to using a solid bar.

Not very impressed at this price really!

 

[tbuelna]

Deltona,

Snap-On sells a digital angle type wrench. I believe its called the "Techangle". I use it and it has worked extremely well so far. It uses an electronic gyro to measure tightening angle within +/-1 degree. We do flight critical assembly where I work, and most of our fasteners are torqued to strain for preload using the angle method.

The 250 ft-lb 1/2" drive costs around $500 I believe, and comes calibrated.

The angle type torquing method is definitely more accurate and repeatable than the old "clicker".

Regards,
Terry

 

[Deltona]

It is the very same wrench Terry, I'm finding that it doesn't allow for the play in the socket fittings or the spring in itself or the bolt.
Now looking at that statement I just made you got me thinking and I'm going to invest in a new 'socket' (I put that in inverted commas because it is a Ribe fitting) as it looks a bit worn, that should increase the accuracy.

Thanks for posting and making me think.

Deltona.

 

[evelrod]

When I was still working we always "calibrated" our 1" drive tq wrenches (click type with a light) and our pneumatic impact wrenches weekly on a Skidmore. Impacts seem to retain calibration, but the tq wrenches "wandered a bit" up and down. Not enough to require recalibration, but not perfect, either.
Now for the wrenches I use for my race cars...I have three very old beam wrenches, a Bonney, a Snap On and, a Chraftsman. All are in agreement when compared and I use them to ck the calibration on my Chraftsman click type 3/8" and 1/2" drive models. So far the 3/8" drive that I use the most is still "spot on" after over four years of continuous use.

I still like my beam wrenches and I will always have them for fall back should I need them. Bulletproof!

Rod

 

[metman]

I tried a digital recently but gave up early becasuse the numbers jump around making it difficult to know what is the actual reading. I don not think it was cheap and it is calibrated but now you've got me curious and I will check on the quality. Also maybe it was the application. I was measuring drag torque on a lock nut so instead I borrowed a caslibrated dial torque wrench as usual which works just great.

It seems like in recent years, digital is a magic word meaning better. Someplaces digital actaully works more precisely and if one needs the precision then it makes sense. On numerous devices I prefer analog over digital.

 

[evelrod]

Every time I try to use my high dollar digital calipers, the battery is dead. I'm with you, I still have my old vernier calipers (even though I now need a magnifying glass to read it) and my analog/dial calipers which I use most often.

I'm still using tools that my dad used in the 1930's so I may not be the person to judge digital tools.

Rod

 

[lawayosh]

Hey Guys -

If you haven't noticed, digital readouts are almost a necessity for a large segment of the current younger generation(s). To use a vernier or dial caliper or vernier micrometer it takes a bit of observational and deductive skill in conjunction with the ability to perform addition. I am going to stop now before I really go off.

Yosh

 

[tbuelna]

Both digital and mechanical dial type torque wrenches have their uses. Given the option, I personally would go for the digital unit.

But if you need to measure the running (prevailing) torque of a self locking fastener to verify that the locking element is still within spec, then a dial type torque wrench is the best choice. A dial type torque wrench may also be necessary if the installation torque must be witnessed by an inspector.

Regards,
Terry

 

[IceStationZebra]

One thing that you can only do with a digital version is observe the torque required to remove a fastener - which has often been necessary in my job as a test engineer.

The one down side of clickers is that they tend to go out of adjustment whereas the beam/dial style holds its calibration for a long time (provided it isn't badly abused)

ISZ

 

[RossABQ]

Not much can go wrong with a beam-type that reads directly on a scale (not a dial), works on removals too. Good enough results for anything I've ever worked on.

 

[dicer]

I've never used a digital torque wrench, and not sure if I want to. I agree with the comment's about the digital precision measuring tools too. As far as clicker wrenches I trust the ones I have, just as much as the beam types, if you use the clickers just like how the beams operate they should hold calibration for years. I relax spring pressure right after use. You never store a beam type under tension do you?

 

[RossABQ]

You never store a beam type under tension do you?

That would be hard to do!

 

[aduetto]

I saw this recently, looks interesting. Would be nice to have in the tool box to use or just check other wrenches. Not a calibration tool, but probably close.

http://www.alltradetools.com/torqueadapter/

Saw it on Amazon for $49 for the 3/8" model.

Alex

 

[evelrod]

Sounds good enough for me to buy one....Unfortunately, they seem to be out of stock.

Rod

 

[racear]

Hi Yunzees
I would like to share with you what I and we do here at my shop. In my years in industry I probably have hired 200 to 300 engineers and as the years have gone by, our tendency has been to go to digital as that is what has been handed to us. I still have my slide rule and grab it out ever so often to use just to keep that skill "sharp". I counted this morning 10 torque wrenches here in the shop. There is only 2 of us here. 2 click click which we never use unless it is in a space where we absolutely have too, 5 beams, and 3 electronic. I keep on put up that stays calibrated and is calibrated each and every year. I welded 2 sockets together so that I can test each against the "master calibrated" wrench. We check each every 2 weeks and we make sure of the temperature of the shop when we check. And yes, you will be amazed how much one can change, digital or click click. We use the beams 99% of the time if we have to use a torque wrench and when we can we use the stretch gauge, which in my opinion is far more accurate than any other gauge. Just my 2 cents worth.
racear

 

[RossABQ]

Sounds good enough for me to buy one....(Evelrod)

Alltrade is one of the lowest of the low-end tool purveyors, I would be very leery. Their stuff is usually in the "any tool for $3.99" bin at KMart.

Racear, I agree with your remarks. There is a presumption that anything digital is more accurate, that many times is not warranted.

 

[evelrod]

A tool is a tool, Ross. I really don't care who makes it if I need it and it can do the job.
One anecdote...I had a really nice Milwaukee chop saw that would fail every now and again requiring a trip to the local store. On one such trip, I stopped by Harbor Freight and picked up a cheap chop saw (perhaps it was Alltrade, it has no name)...Fast forward, that cheap saw is still working and it's been several years. I don't even bother to bring it in at night. The Milwaukee is repaired and is sitting on a shelf in the storage room. I'll use it when the cheapo quits, but I'll never buy another.

We are in agreement about tools, though. Always buy the best you can afford and you will seldom be disappointed.

Rod

 

[metman]

Racear, I agree with your remarks. There is a presumption that anything digital is more accurate, that many times is not warranted.

To repeat myself:

It seems like in recent years, digital is a magic word meaning better. Someplaces digital actaully works more precisely and if one needs the precision then it makes sense. On numerous devices I prefer analog over digital.

And yes racear how is the modulus of elasticity on your beam wrench going to change? As long as the needle is pointing at zero when you start, how is it going to become uncalibrated? Even a moderate temperature change should not have a measurable effect but now I am curious and will have to check it out unless someone wants to take up the challenge and beat me to it. MOE of Iron (Steel is essentially Iron) vs temperature say + - 50Fdeg.

 

[MintJulep]

People seem fixated on measuring the torque applied to a fastener with greater accuracy and more precision.

Given the huge variability between applied torque and fastener tension this gains you nothing.

 

[evelrod]

MJ, that is exactly why I use MY tools to build MY engines. When I must have work done by outsiders, I double ck any critical dimensions and tqs with MY tools. Mostly they agree, often they do not.

The tq settings for many of my more critical setups, e.g., connecting rod bolts/studs, are determined by stretch. The tq wrench is simply a time saving device in that case.

I've said it before, but it's worth repeating...I use my "clickers" for checking wheels, motor mounts, rear end studs, etc. I use my old, antique, beams for the basic engine. I just simply don't like the digital...just the prejudice of a reeeealy old dude, I guess. Every time I pick up the damn thing the battery is dead!

Rod