For a 2/4 Overhang would you consider dropping the gable truss plus one more truss?

[E M]

Overkill? Advisable? Necessary?

 

[driftLimiter]

Overkill post title? Yes
Advisable to post a sketch and some more contextual information? Yes
Necessary? Yes

 

[E M]

Last week I got hammered for not including enough info in the post title....
Really don't see the additional contextual info necessary. Composition shingles if that helps.
24" oc trusses if that helps.
Maybe I wasn't clear that these will be wood trusses....
Nothing "special".... residential type construction on a commercial project.

 

[JAE]

Yes you weren't very clear.
Could be light gage trusses.
I'm with driftLimiter here.

 

[RontheRedneck]

If you do drop the 1st truss in, be sure you have enough heel height to work with. Otherwise you might only have a sliver of wood out there for the truss to bear on, and it might not work.

 

[dvd]

Not only drop the gable and first truss in, but make certain that the bottom of rafter tails are in same plane.

 

[phamENG]

Last week I got hammered for not including enough info in the post title....

No, you got hammered for not putting in a post title at all, so your first line automatically became the title. That first line was a URL. "Wood Gable and Overhang Framing Question" might be a good title for this one, with a sketch and detailed question. Remember that this is an international forum, and construction is a highly regional thing. There are plenty of places where they don't even drop the gable for the overhang and just scab it on to the outside face of the wall, some places where it gets dropped regardless of the length, and some places where they just don't do overhangs. So a sketch will help people understand how it's being built in your part of the world before they start making suggestions.

To your question, though...

What is a 2/4 overhang? I'm not familiar with that terminology. I usually measure overhangs in inches.

 

[E M]

Thanks everyone. Not trying to be difficult. Didn't realize was an international type forum..... Yes a lot of different ways of doing things any way and in that light way more possibilities.
I'll try to be clearer next time.

Ron- Yes, have plenty of heel height to cover dropping.
DVD- If I'm hearing you right, make sure the rafter tails for the dropped gables and the common trusses align. I follow and see your point (I think). Since the typical (and common) rafter tails would be extensions of the sloped top chord then I can see how that gets tricky when fabricating the dropped truss. Would/ could that typically be done? Have the rafter tail for the dropped truss fabricated in? I BELIEVE the way I'm accustomed to seeing the condition handled is by field scabbing something onto the a dropped gable truss with no tail extension up at the ladder framing.

phamENG- Your points are well taken.
Apologies for confusion on the overhang dimensions.
2/4 is a sort of short hand for 2'-4" or 28". This is holdover from architecture speak and it comes (generally)from door and window sizing. 2/0 doors 3/0 doors 3/6 window etc. Just easier to say and write/ indicate on plans. If anyone cares the way you "say it" would be "two oh", "three six" etc....

 

[dvd]

For a drop of a 2x thickness, if you have 2x6 rafter tails on common trusses, use 2x4 for dropped gables, etc. so that underside of all tails are in same plane.

 

[E M]

DVD-
Maybe I'm being thick about this....
But 2x6 as rafter tail is 5 1/2" deep.
2x4 is 3 1/2" deep plus 1 1/2" on side= 5".
So, 1/2" descrapancy right at the bottom of the tails.... if the bottom of the tails to be in the same plane so not in same plane with this setup.
But after it's all said and done really trying to get the tops to line up anyway.... or at least in my way of thinking about it. If the outlookers continue all the way down to the end of the rafter tails then this will all be covered up with fascia/ subfascia at the eaves and rake so the 1/2" descrepancy won't matter anyway.

The ladder framing as I have drawn above has the lookouts perpendicular to the trusses. Am I right in my thinking that could still do that (for deeper overhangs) just by putting the tail for both common and dropped trusses in the same plane as the top chord? Right? Would just be a lower heel height with same profile for all practical purposes.

And just for clarification (for me) it really doesn't matter if the bottom of the tails line up UNLESS wanting to use exposed rafter tails or nail soffit to the bottom of the tails for sloped soffits. And for situations like this could just strap the bottom of the common tails to whatever depth required (lets say in the event that have deep soffits where intermediate nailer would be "required" anyway.

Now this has me thinking about full gable length cornice returns and how to detail those so not attached through a ledger/ sheeting and into studs.... maybe on hangers and maybe not. Wondering now if that's is good enough or need to rethink this detail too.

All this makes it clear now (in part) as to why rakes would "typically/ traditionally" have less overhang than at the eaves. Interesting.

 

[dvd]

Your comments on depth are correct. I am off by a half inch. If you are attaching fascia to underside of rafter tails you want to assure all tails are aligned in same plane. Looks like it would be necessary to rip the tails at gable trusses.

 

[E M]

Thanks DVD for the follow up and the clarification