I always specify control joints at 20-25' centers as well. And like the previous poster, I am in Florida, typically don't have bond beams except at floor/roof levels, and partially grouted (16" o.c to 32" o.c. pretty common).
I think you might be successful in long runs of walls without openings, if using intermediate bond beams, without control joints. But as soon as you start adding openings or intersecting walls, or wall height changes, you definitely should be adding control joints.
I have reviewed masonry cracking on several projects, some mine and some designed by others. Usually I find they have the typical control joint layout/spacing covered, but have not paid enough attention to locating joints at critical locations. So these get missed, cracks develop, and then on review it becomes obvious why the wall cracked where it did.
Bottom line, you can't have too many control joints. If you are not comfortable, make them put the joints in. Or make the architect and owner sign a release relieving you of any responsibility for wall cracking, moisture ingress, corrosion damage to wall reinforcing, interior and exterior finish failure, and any other issues that may arise from cracked masonry walls. I think when you put them on the spot, they will allow the joints.