New Engine Break-In

[04v8s4]

Hi all,

I'm a long time reader, but post very infrequently. Looking for a little advice. I recently purchased a 2012 Acura TSX Sport Wagon...currently ~70 miles on the car.

I have questions about break in technique and duration as well as engine oils and change intervals. The engine is a 2.4L I4 i-Vtec.

What is the proper engine break-in technique on modern engines? With 70 miles already on the car, is it safe to say that the rings have already seated? Is there any point to additiona periods of high-gear, high-load operation to continue to seat rings? Should I make efforts to vary RPM throughout range? Should I limit max RPM for any period of time? Any input on this topic would be appreciated.

Owner's Manual calls for 0W-20 oil that's API approved. Am I to assume that the oil in the car now is synthetic if it's a 0W-20? I'm not aware of 0W conventional oils?

OCI's are 10K miles as per the on-board computer. This seems extraordinarily long, especially for the first oil change. (Makes me think it's got to be synth oil) What are your thoughts on an early oil change once "break-in" is complete?

Thanks in advance!

 

[drwebb]

"Synthetic" as applied to automotive lubricants is a commercial, rather than a technical term, as ALL modern automotive lubricants contain significant amounts of ingredients that are synthetic chemicals. But to address your oil question, yes I also am unaware of a way to achieve the low volatility requirements of API/ILSAC 0W-20 grades without using high performance ingredients typically comprising oils that are marketed as "(fully) synthetic".

I have eyed the TSX SW as potential replacement for my aging V70- just wish they featured turbo and/or GDI to make it a little more mechanically sexy.

 

[04v8s4]

Dr Webb...thanks for the insight. I tend to agree with you about the recent commercialization of "synthetic" oils. I'm going to do a little more reading about the OEM oil that Acura is using in this engine. If it checks out (PAO base oil?) and can be had LOCALLY for a reasonable price, I see not reason not to keep running it.

I absolutely agree with you about the engine options (or lack there of) for the Sport Wagon. A turbo/GDI engine option would have been great! Even the V6 they offer in the sedan version would have been sufficient! My last car was a B6 Audi S4 (40v 4.2L v8) so I've definitely missed low end torque (and the exhaust note!)

 

[CRG]

Even though my statement below has nothing to do with the original posters question, I thought that I would add this to make some folks here cringe. It still makes me cringe to think about it, but it worked.

Years ago, I was involved with the marketing and repairs of Spanish two-stroke dirt bikes. At one of the service clinics put on by the the USA distributor in California, the advice was:
1. Use OEM forged Mahle pistons with piston/cylinder clearance on the tight side of specs
2. Lightly lube main bearings, big & small end needle bearing, wrist pin.
3. Install dry piston and rings into dry cylinder.
4. Start engine and by the time the engine is warm, it is ready to race.

I did this for many engines where I had the opportunity to inspect the cylinders & rings for wear after a number of races. If the engine's carburetor was jetted properly, there would be no galling on the piston or cylinder. Seems like it only took a few seconds for the cylinder walls to be wetted with oil.

 

[turbomotor]

Hello O4V8S4,

Your OP surely invites anecdote and opinion, and here is mine:

Opinion: There are numerous break-in and OCI methodologies that have proven successful for numerous people.

Anecdote:

1. I bought a Honda Civic new in 2002 with about 40 miles on it.
2. I changed the oil immediately (ok, we all have some quirks, and mine is trusting others) to Mobil 1 0W-20. I installed a Mobil 1 filter.
3. I changed the oil again at 2000 miles, at 5000 miles, and at 10,000 miles.
4. I have changed the oil every 10,000 miles (always Mobil 1 0W-20 and Mobil 1 filter).
5. The car now has 270,000 miles. (A lot of those miles are easy freeway miles, as the roughly 27k miles/year would suggest).
6. The car has not ever required additional oil added during oil change interval, even though it only has 3.5 liter sump.
7. Engine currently gets great fuel mileage (about 40 mph) and has very nicely matched warm cranking cylinder pressure numbers.
8. Although Honda is very good at reducing variation engine-to-engine, I still believe that I got a good one.
9. And I never, ever, ever tromp on it until the engine is operating at thermostat temp (well, almost never).
10. My break-in driving was about 2000 miles, but I just did the standard stuff mentioned in other responses.
11. And I kinda drive this car like an old lady, as indicated by the fact that I am still using the original clutch.
12. The only work that I have ever done (to the engine) has been to change the cam timing belt twice and adjust the valve lash each time. No other mechanic has ever touched the car. (ref note 2).

Dick

 

[04v8s4]

Turbomotor:

Yes, I was looking for a little of both...it's always nice to get some anecdote along with the facts!

I too distrust anyone in the automotive service and repair space...and when possible/economical I perform all my own work as well.

In fact, a few years ago I rebuilt a 5.0L SBF roller cam engine for a mustang I had. I reused the block (bored, line honed...etc) and crank (turned down, balanced...etc) but most everything else was new and improved. I performed oil changes at similar intervals as you indicated above...making the change to Mobil 1 "synthetic" after the first oil change. The motor made GREAT power and never burned a drop of oil...in fact that motor outlasted the car. It's still sitting on an engine stand in my garage.

I felt like there were enough differences between my pushrod V8 SBF and "modern" japanese engines to warrant discussion. I'll continue the break-in driving techniques for a thousand miles or so...then drive like normal. I will probably change the oil between 3-5K depending on what I learn about the oil that's in the car right now.

 

[patprimmer]

Most break in procedures involve a lot of unnecessary steps but they still work just as well as if only the necessary steps where taken.

The best most efficient procedure depends largely on metals used in various parts and on precision of machining re fit and surface finish. Because of a large number of variables there are a large number of correct procedures and an even larger number of opinions based on it worked before. Some opinions are based on it worked on engines built to standards typical of 80 to 100 years ago when bearings where hand scraped for instance and high rpm was 3000.

This has been covered in detail several times before. A search should show previous threads.

Regards
Pat
See FAQ731-376 for tips on use of eng-tips by professional engineers &

http://eng-tips.com/market.cfm

for site rules

 

[BrianGar]

My break in technique is break everything you can before the warranty runs out if you intend keeping the car for 3yrs+.

Brian,

 

[e21jps]

Here is a trusted procedure.

First rule DONT baby it, idle it for long periods or free rev it lots, second rule dont use synthetic oil, third rule disregard what any user manual says! thay are written for litigation and safety purposes and go directly against whats best for a new engine. I mean what do you thing would happen if the manual said take your new sports car or high powered road bike out and immediately use full throttle! Luckily as mentioned above most cars face at least part of the following procedure at the factory.

1. First half hour high idle keep an eye on the temp, check the timing etc, vary the reves occasionally, this runs in the cam and settles the bearings.
2. Next go driving for an hour or so with lots of gentle rolls onto hi load using long pulls in a high gear, start gently but quickly increase the load until you are doing full throttle pulls but keep the reves down, obviously keep the engine in its comfort zone dont lug it down too low. This is probably the most important step it starts the ring sealing process. otherwise the bore can glaze and it will never seal really well if the loads are not high enough.
3. Next keep the hi load pulls going but now increase the maximum revs slowly until the engine is reaching redline, do this for another half hour to an hour.
4. Change the oil and drive how the engine is going to be driven for the rest of its life, soft or hard and it will last for many years or many races

 

[thundair]

Amen e21jps
I have been privileged to work with some pretty talented drag race engine builders and have seen personally a piston and ring set out of an engine that was broke in per mfg. suggestion and a brake in on a dyno with some hard pulls. The carbon never made it past the top ring on the dyno pull, but was way down the piston on the standard break in.


I don't know anything but the people that do.

 

[turbocohen]

Modern OE tools and materials can produce a much better initial product.. Much of the ring and bore wall breakin that was associated with older engines is pretty much a thing of the past. Breakin oil is reclaimed and reused after extensive filtering and the engine is characterized to determine that it meets spec before it passes that station and on to final assembly at most mfg's. One reason to opt for a moderate breakin is to prevent transmission gear and friction surface damage and establish brake wear. Before the engine is mated to the rest of the hardware it is pretty much run in and ready for the customer. Unlike the old days when run it at the factory was a rudimentary blow up test, todays test is preparation to meet much stricter emissions and durability targets so much more emphasis goes into preventing "lemons" from being assembled and failing in the hands of the customer. This is a video that shows what some engines go through although this is not a production environment.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zgIzVaCt1o

 

[golfpin]

thundair,
re May 9 "the carbon never made it etc" what did I miss ? "but was way down the piston on the std break in" ?
have rebuilt F1 engines from F1 1500 Alfa Romeo, coventry climax 2 liter, ford dfv and bda and bdg including 350 chev and ford
been around a lot of hi perf engines

 

[Tmoose]

I >>think< thundair may have been referring to something like this.

this piston is quite clean below the top ring ( despite having a broken land)

http://members.modernvespa.net/ljclark/uploads/130518_piston_xpro1_391_w_12160.jpg

one piston in this picture has deposits (carbon) below the top ring.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/BreakInF3Pistons.jpg