Replacing Termite Damaged Stud Wall Behind Brick Veneer

[XR250]

Got a massively termite damaged wall behind brick veneer. This is in a walk-out basement. The owner and contractor do not want to remove the brick. As such, my thoughts were as follows...

1) Remove the damaged stud wall and construct a new wall with pressure treated studs and 3/4" treated plywood sheathing.
Cover the plywood in ice and water shield and then add 1" thick vertical furring strips on top of that to act as spacers between the wall and the brick (there is currently no airspace)

The wall would be constructed on the ground and then stood up in place from the inside.

2) Fasten the brick to the wall from the inside by running Tapcons thru the plywood and furring strips and into the back of the brick.

Yea, I know this is not ideal from a water management perspective but seems to be a decent alternative to actually doing a full demo. I looked at Simpson Heli-Ties and I don't really see them working any better than this system and being a much bigger pain in the ass to install.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[MotorCity]

I don't think you could get all of the vapor barrier, flashing, waterproofing details correct without having access to the exterior face of the wall. I might try to insert new members next to the damaged members, or perhaps consider the existing wall to be sacrificial and build a new wall behind it.

 

[XR250]

I might try to insert new members next to the damaged members, or perhaps consider the existing wall to be sacrificial and build a new wall behind it.

The problem with that is that the existing studs are no longer capable of holding the existing brick tie nails (if any actually exist). They could kerf some flashing into the back of the brick at the base, drill some weep holes, bend it up some and let it press against the ice and water shield. The furring strips would have to be cut short at the bottom to allow this to work.

 

[oldestguy]

To be that bad performance of the existing wall studs, etc. there may be some significant problem that the "saving of the old brick" will not correct. I'd look for these possible reasons to "do it right" before the idea of owner is agreed to. How about warranty effective down the road? Where do you stand then if job fails? Sometimes everyone is happy now, but it is amazing how mad they can get when tough things happen later.

 

[XR250]

oldestguy,

My drawings would def. stipulate there is no warranty and that R&R of the brick is the best solution. My guess is that the lack of airspace and the fact that this is on the gable end caused the rain driven rain to wet the lumber - attracting the termites. My solution would certainly be better than what was there.

 

[OldBldgGuy]

It's possible to fix it from inside out as you describe & there are purpose-made stainless steel helical brick anchors that can be driven from either side (I'm not familiar with Simpson so I don't know if they are comparable to the ones I've used for years). From the outside you can drive them into the studs but you have to patch the holes in the mortar joints. From the inside you have to be more creative how you anchor them to the wood framing. I have used tapcons as you describe too, but they aren't quite as satisfactory when all is said & done.

 

[XR250]

The Simpson anchors are the helical type. After reviewing them with the contractor, he would prefer the Tapcon method.
They aren't getting a permit for this so they are just wanting some advice knowing that it is not ideal.

Thanks for the help.