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Stich Welding 2

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ER_Azza

Mechanical
Jul 18, 2018
54
HI All

Need your opinion. I am no welding expert.

I am trying to weld a small shield plate (3mm) (non-structural) to a frame.
However, I am concern with the potential warping of the thin plate.
Thinking of doing stitch welding to mitigate this (as opposed to full perimeter weld), but I am concern with it susceptibility to corrosion, and as well as poor fusion.
And stitch welding itself could potentially does not mitigate warping due to localize heating.

Thanks

Weld_h5gjfc.jpg
 
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I suggest small screws into tapped holes, with a sealant on the faying surfaces to address your stated concerns.
 
Thanks mate, but I did not draw my sketch with enough info.
Can't screw tap a screw as there is not enough thickness on the frame.

Weld2_y0215e.jpg
 
What’s the application? Does it have to be welded? What about adhesive bonding?

The devil is in the details; she also wears prada.
 
HI DVWE

Yes it has to be welded. Adhesive bonding won't be strong enough for this application.
The plate is to act as dust shield.

I wonder if a full weld but staggered heat input will mitigate this warping.
Or any other option apart from stitch welding?

 
If you can use two "L" shaped plates then spot welding is possible.
 
Your best bet for welding, intermittent (stitch) or not, is to clamp the thin plate onto a much thicker plate which acts as a heat sink. Welding should be as fast and as low heat input as possible to still get a sound weld. Leave on the clamps after welding until the part is completely cooled.

The devil is in the details; she also wears prada.
 
What is the size of the 3 mm plate?
How much warping is acceptable?
How strong do you need the connection to be?
 
Pop rivets?



Remember - More details = better answers
Also: If you get a response it's polite to respond to it.
 
weld leg = 3mm
rule-of-thumb weld length, 4 x weld leg + 6mm (1/4") = 4 x 3mm + 6mm = 18mm

Just try it on a sample piece and adjust as required. (maybe preheat the thicker plate)
 
dvd said:
weld leg = 3mm
You're in GTAW territory there...
I'd use GMAW for production purposes, and rather choose a low carbon steel in order to avoid preheating because it's very time consuming...
 
How many do you have to make?
Like others asked, how much distortion is allowable ?
What is the service environment, and the resulting corrosion concerns ?

Some hints on controlling weld distortion from the (late?) great Omer W. Blodgett here-

The stresses in welds from cooling are not removed by a large strongback.

From your mostly un-dimensioned image I expect the thin dust shield will curl up several mm.

From your description so far I'd consider welding a few stout tabs with tapped holes to the "frame".
Then bolt the dust shield to the frame tabs.

Treat the faying surfaces appropriately before assembly.
Galvanized paint, RTV, etc.
 

Check with Masterbond... they have some pretty good adhesives. You might be surprised.

-----*****-----
So strange to see the singularity approaching while the entire planet is rapidly turning into a hellscape. -John Coates

-Dik
 
Use a plate thicker than 3mm if warping becomes a problem.
 
Cutting slots and plug welding from the outside will drastically reduce warping vs fillets on the inside. Shrinkage will be in the same plane as the plate.

Edit: had an autocorrect error. This comment should make much more sense now.

Also, plug welding is much easier to do from a manufacturing standpoint.
 
Was going to reply with what Tug said, and can only add - you could still add a few tacks on the backside if the front plug welds caused some warping. How many and where located are why you get an experienced welder to do the job.
 
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