Not to rain on anyone's parade, but in terms of diaphragm strength and lateral capacity, 2x4s are not nearly as good as plywood or OSB. At least looking at it from an NDS numbers approach. Unless it's diagonally installed.
But if you're asking me to walk on the roof, I'm gonna feel a lot...
My initial thought is that raising the roof 4' may be like the case where you spend 100,000 to save 50,000.
Area of country and AHJ requirements will be key. If building is ~100 years old and you are trying to do that big of a renovation, it may trigger seismic upgrades, etc. Goes back to...
What if you have the masons cut the courses BELOW your top of wall bond beam. Then have a top of wall bond beam that is 8" deep poured solid. Then use 3/8"x8"x8" embed plates (with headed studs) at say 48" o/c (or thicker if you want) and weld a continuous c4 channel to it (or 4x4 tube). Then...
I would say it is typical. Doesn't make it right, but I probably wouldn't sweat that too much based on the PSF loads you show. I don't think I would sweat the withdrawal load from a Tek screw if it was installed correctly (whether vertical or into side of flute). I do think there may be some...
Got an existing 1968 building (Mid-atlantic USA) with some white rust with red deposits (see below photos. First is before I scraped it. After is after I scraped it). The red deposits come right off and deck seems to be in pretty good shape underneath. Problem is they have coolers above this...
My two cents...I recently did the Slab on grade detail of 0.5% rebar with NO control joints. Lot of steel...and the slab cracked up a lot (client didn't want the joints). Now, it's safe and likely won't be much of an issue because the cracks are stitched together really well, but point is that...
I'm also thinking that a good way to make this detail work (the embedded post detail) would be to leave a 1/4" hole at the base of the rail, fill the base full with spray foam insulation (such as Great Stuff). That would prevent water from getting in. Then, either make the grout with a slight...
Does anyone have a good summary of the best locations for weep holes with guardrails? I would think that condensation could get inside the rail on hot/cold cycles, drip to the bottom of the pipe, likely not dry-up, and then freeze thaw from inside the pipe. Is that crazy talk?
EPCI,
To answer your question, if you know the codes well, likely not critical to have them.
Other musings you didn't ask for but hopefully will be helpful:
1. You say you are an engineer. Technically, if you are in the US, most states (if not all) won't let you legally call yourself that...
I do think it was freezing water/corrosion jacking that caused it, but more freeze thaw. I hope the pictures are helpful too as we all consider this detail moving forward.
Ron, have you seen any good ways to do this or retrofit? Again, I'm thinking they chip out the grout, go back with a less...
Not to Hijack this thread, but as someone noted here, AutoCAD did the same thing and I think it's where RISA could be headed. I sent the below email to the Sr. Marketing Manager of Autodesk after they kept emailing me about how great subscription is, only about a year after they tried to sell...
The bottom does not appear to be capped. Appears open, see below from shop drawing...I don't have original design documents showing designer's intent, just shops.
I'm a one-man shop and I use RISA. It's simple to use/learn, intuitive, and cost-effective. SAP is great and powerful, but has more bells and whistles than most engineers need for residential/small commercial jobs.
RISA did recently get bought out by Nemechek or something like that, so who...
Also, I think a root cause of issue is that the grout pockets hold water as they aren't flush with the concrete above, forcing water to constantly be in contact at the connection...but I still don't like this detail!
I've never been a big fan of the Guardrail embedment detail for exterior applications. This is in a normal climate (some freeze/thaw, but not excessive). It is hot-dipped galvanized railing that is about 5 or 6 years old, embedded 5" into concrete below and grouted. I don't have the specs on...
My advice, for what it's worth is, if you're asking that question, run from this project. I suspect the EOR chose not to do that for the same reason you are asking for details...it's highly specialized and best left to folks that do that all the time.
Again, I know that doesn't answer your...
Do you mean for anchoring to stone masonry, or actually anchoring stone masonry to things? If the former, I know companies like Hilti, Dewalt/Powers, and Simpson are sometimes willing to physically come to your location, do in-situ testing and get you loads to use. They chalk it up as...
How is that a helpful response?
To Jerehmy: I looked on Amazon, ebay (including completed items), and ABE books and couldn't find anything. I would actually like a copy too, as I collect historical books. With a book that old, I think your best bet is a university library. They probably...
