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"Colder" air vs. larger intake area

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rd400guy

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Jan 30, 2003
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Since this is an engineering forum, I'll pose the question this way: Is there more benefit to having a colder charge air source, with a smaller inlet area, or engine compartment temperature air (with some outside air) and a larger inlet area?

Here's the scenario, two modifications to a stock airbox (K&N type filter already in place):

1. Install ducting (~3"Ø) from front lower grille up to a hole cut into stock airbox.
- block off existing inlet to restrict intake path to nose inlet only? or
- keep existing inlet open?

2. Cut away "dirty side" of existing airbox to expose entire surface of air filter as the "inlet".
- use lower grille opening & minimal ducting to aim cooler air toward "inlet"?
- add heat shield by exhaust manifold?

Either situation will flow through unmodified throttle body and intake manifold.

 
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Cool air will not make up for restricted breathing. A 3" duct is smallish for most engines. Without knowing anything else...I would opt for more air.

 
A little more info:

2771 cm³ water-cooled V6, bore 82.5 mm × 86.4 mm stroke, DOHC, 5 valves per cylinder (30 valves total), CR = 10.6:1, output: 194 hp (142 kW) @ 6000 rpm, 280 N·m (206 ft·lbf) @ 3200 rpm
 
On the contrary, I have never seen more than 0.5 kPa inlet depression measured ahead of the throttle, which would lose you maybe 1% of the charge, yet it would be easy to lose about 10% charge density by picking up hot air rather than cold.

Cheers

Greg Locock

Please see FAQ731-376 for tips on how to make the best use of Eng-Tips.
 
Make sure the 3" pipe on the front of the car is fitted in directly into the air. Use a mesh as a filter.

Removing the "dirty" part of the airbox will increase the air intake surface at that point; however, after the airbox the surface of the intake is reduced again.. nothing to gain here (on a standard engine).

In autocross most of the time an intake pipe fitted to the standard airbox is used. (option 1). BTW, U won't need the standard air inlet of the airbox anymore.

Good luck with ur Audi..

grtz, Sorex
 
Focus on getting colder air. The dirty half of the airbox is likely not the main source of pressure loss. Why don't you just buy a cold air intake?
 
Why don't you just buy a cold air intake?

The "cold air intakes" currently commercially available for this vehicle aren't a true cold air intake, as they pull engine compartment air through a big K&N cone type filter (basically my option 2 in the original post) - but they add an aluminum heat shield. Or they use the same ducting as stock but instead of going into the stock airbox with a plate type filter, air goes into a can with a cone filter (where's the benefit?).

My option 1 (which is what I'm going to do when I get a free weekend) is a true cold air intake, as I'll be pulling in air from outisde the engine compartment throught a larger duct than the stock intake ducting. I managed to obtain some 3 1/2" diameter wire reinforced flex hose.

Plus it'll cost me about $300 less than anything you can *buy*.
 
"Or they use the same ducting as stock but instead of going into the stock airbox with a plate type filter, air goes into a can with a cone filter (where's the benefit?)."

Sometimes intakes will incorporate a air horn, or velocity stack, at the end of a pipe, and will attach a big cone filter to the large radius of the horn. This allows for less pressure loss at the pipe entrance and much higher flow rates. Designed correctly, they can make a significant difference.
 
Be aware of your new intake hieght, should you ever try to traverse a minorly flooded road. I know of at least 2
toasted motors from trying to pump water :) due to the cold air intake scooping up copious amounts of water
 
I have tested on my highly modified 300whp VW 1.8T a 3" K&N cone with inverted open top on a 3" Tube vs
Evoms V-Flow which features 6" to 4" velocity stack connected to 4" to 3" venturi based on Bernoulli's principle.

Here is a back to back Mass Air Flow Comparison.
LOG_01_xxx_020_003_10615_image001_001.gif
 
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