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Split Phase Motor Connection Help

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JMGotts

Electrical
Jul 7, 2024
8
I picked up an old GE 5KCP19 motor and it has a five wire connection. Metering the leads, the continuity values are as follows.

Bk-Wht. 0
Bk & Wht-Red 92
Yel-Blu 17

Motor Ratings…

115V, 1650/1350 RPM, 35 Mhp, Cap 4Mfd. CW/CCW

Would appreciate connection help (simple diagram) so I can use it.
Thanks!
 
 https://files.engineering.com/getfile.aspx?folder=d2110151-f377-49da-9dd2-264c54e86efd&file=IMG_0834.jpeg
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Yep, read that one but there are no specifics, just guesses. I’m assuming the higher resistance reading is the main winding, the lower the accessory. I’m somewhat confused about the shorted Blk/Wht reading.
 
??
Uhhh. That thread is for a two speed motor, this is a single speed motor with 150 RPM slip.
eg; 1800RPM - 150 RPM slip = 1650 RPM on 60 Hz.
1500RPM - 150 RPM slip = 1350 RPM on 60 Hz.
Expect two windings.
The 5th wire is probably a ground. Check for continuity between one of the leads and the motor frame.
Now you should be able to identify two windings.
The winding and the wire pair with the higher resistance is the starting winding.
This is worry-some:
Bk-Wht. 0
Bk & Wht-Red 92
One winding may be shorted to ground internally.

--------------------
Ohm's law
Not just a good idea;
It's the LAW!
 
waross Good catch!! Yeah, that discussion would have been useless. Like base model, different motor.
 
Capacitor value on the nameplate means it is not “split phase”, is a single phase cap start induction run 2 speed motor.

Read this:


" We are all here on earth to help others; what on earth the others are here for I don't know." -- W. H. Auden
 
OP.
My best guess below based on your resistance readings. You will need to determine white and black. If you can chuck the shaft in a cordless drill, you should be able to get it up to speed, where the switch drops out. First verify between black and white, should open up. Then black and red. If it doesn't open up, then that is one side of your power. Do the same on white to be sure. Blue and yellow will be 50/50, if it doesn't start, swap.
I may be wildly wrong, but it made sense to me but it's getting late here.




Screenshot_7-7-2024_211335__u3ocfw.jpg
 
Did you read my post Jeff.
Single speed two frequency motor.
1450 RPM 50 Hz
1650 RPM 60 Hz.
4 pole motor.
Many split phase motors start without a capacitor.
Some leave the caoacitor in circuit for greater running torque and power..

--------------------
Ohm's law
Not just a good idea;
It's the LAW!
 
5kcp19motor_im2vbd.jpg


I have 2 identical motors, both new/unused. They both meter the same.
According to GE nomenclature (5KCP,) they are permanent split phase units.
There is no continuity to the frame from any lead.
This configuration is what I am focused on.
If someone could assign the supposed color codes, that would be great!

SplitPhaseMotor_piippm.jpg
 
OP,
Just going on process of elimination and the resistance readings. If you are sure there is NO centrifugal switch, then white and black are interchangeable and can be either line/N or cap. Red is the other side of your main winding. Yellow and blue is your start winding but since you don't know the direction, its a 50/50 to what direction the motor will spin. So either yellow and red to line/L and blue to cap or red and blue to line/L and yellow to cap.
 
Let us know how it goes.
You may consider experimenting in a well ventilated area.

--------------------
Ohm's law
Not just a good idea;
It's the LAW!
 
Will do. Waiting on the cap! Thanks.
BTW, I think the lower resistance pair is the aux winding.
Usually the higher resistance pair is start.
 
Did you find out if this motor has a centrifugal switch?
It makes a difference both to the wire identification and to the class of capacitor.

--------------------
Ohm's law
Not just a good idea;
It's the LAW!
 
I don’t believe it does. I put a drill on it didn’t see any continuity change.
I had opened up the case early on a didn’t notice one. It’s only a 5” frame.
 
The 5 in the 5KCP19 just means that the model number belongs to a motor. The KCP means that the motor is a Permanent-Split Capacitor type. The 19 indicates the frame size (a GE assignment, not the NEMA size number).

It's a PSC motor, so there would not be a centrifugal switch. Color codes are specific to each manufacturer, so unless you can find an original installation diagram from GE, who is now out of that business and no longer exists, you are going to have to figure it out on your own.
This might help though. No colors, but it shows how to determi9ne which is which.
07a5ec4f5ed603133402b297d2140bae_iqqflb.jpg



" We are all here on earth to help others; what on earth the others are here for I don't know." -- W. H. Auden
 
I apologize profusely, Jeff.
When you first mentioned multi-speed motor I visualized a motor with different speeds developed by different numbers of poles.
I overlooked the technique of restricting the current to increase the slip on what is already a high slip motor.
The slower speeds are very much load dependant and so are not listed with the speed information.
Thanks for your diagram and the reminder.

Why the strange readings?
I suspect a problem with the Ohm-meter.

--------------------
Ohm's law
Not just a good idea;
It's the LAW!
 
While I'm waiting for the 4mfd cap I made some progress...and understanding.
The accessory winding (also called the start winding) is actually the lower resistance.
The main winding (run) is the higher resistance one.
By applying AC to yellow and blue and adding a little spin of the fingers in either direction to the shaft,
I get rotation! Adding the red and yellow together don't provide any discernable increase in speed with the main in circuit.

Note that the cap is not installed, just running straight wire.

SplitPhaseMotor_nzj12m.jpg
 
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