Wood grade/Species 1

[JStructsteel]

Aoyone here local to Ohio and have an idea what wood species would have been used? Central ohio, near Lima (I know thats pretty specific).
Its dimensional lumber. Im not good at identifying wood by looks, unless hardwoods.

 

[phamENG]

Not local to Ohio, but looks like pine to me. A positive identification usually requires a really good magnifying glass or handheld microscope. https://extension.msstate.edu/sites/default/files/publications/publications/p2606.pdf

 

[JStructsteel]

Thanks. Based on that picture, could you say its #1 pine or are those knots large enough to deter #1 grade?

Its probably a moot point. I have some joists that are 15'-11" w/ heavy DL due to fire protection. I know I will never get there due to deflection.

 

[phamENG]

Number 1 is questionable, but not out of the question. The grain on some of them looks a bit...loose. I'm assuming that wasn't built yesterday - I'd use pre-2013 No.2 values unless some of them have big ol' knots right on the tension face.

 

[SWComposites]

Looks like lath and plaster were on the walls, so likely built long ago.

 

[phamENG]

Looks like lath and plaster were on the walls, so likely built long ago.

Yeah, but look at those solid brick walls. Just screams modern construction.

 

[RWW0002]

I agree on pine at first glance, but it is not overly difficult to establish a lumber type by looking at fresh-cut end grain with a loupe. USDA has some good information available. You should be able to at least establish hardwood vs softwood species.

The national parks service has a guide and database for field grading lumber. I have used it in the past. It can be difficult to justify a #1 grading for a whole floor system if the lumber was originally ungraded. Things like grain slope and knot size can kick individual members out quickly.

Just for reference:
For a 2x12 So. Pine member I believe knots on the edge 1/3 would be limited to less than 3" and in the center 2/3 less than 3.75" and maximum slope of grain is 1:10
Allowable knot sizes get smaller as you go down in lumber size. (This info is just from some notes from a project long ago, so take it with a grain of salt).

Based on your photos, many of the members look good, and may be fine as #1, but I bet several would not quite meet requirements. If I were you I would lean on historic lumber properties more so than grade, as this is likely more consistent across the whole floor system. As mentioned above I would use pre-2013 values as a minimum. There is some information available for historic lumber properties if you know the approximate age of construction and would like to get a bit more aggressive.

Good luck.

 

[XR250]

@JS,

What is your role here?

 

[JoshPlumSE]

I wouldn't think #1. I see a knot close to the extreme fiber on at least one of the beams. Not sure if that's allowed with #1. But, if I hadn't seen that I'd say that it looks like pretty good lumber.

 

[JStructsteel]

Thanks all.
The county website says built in 1900, but I think a bit later, since dimensional lumber.

I am the engineer, trying to rate the joists. Due to fire code, extra fire proofing is needed, so DL is higher.

 

[XR250]

How much additional dead load is there?

 

[JStructsteel]

How much additional dead load is there?

The total DL is 13.7psf, I rounded up to 15psf.

 

[XR250]

How much added dead load?

 

[JStructsteel]

How much added dead load?

I dont know. I didnt do the original design. I suppose about 6-8 psf?