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Lifting using chain 1

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johnfin1

Mechanical
Jun 16, 2011
19
I need to lift an engine/trans (800lbs) and because of the design I need to lift it using chain against a casting (heads). Is this a bad idea? (See attachment)

lifting.jpg
 
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This is a very common way to lift an engine. However, it is recommended to place nothing less than a heavy washer, or more preferably a bushing, between the chain link and the engine casting in addition to the washer under the bolt head in order to protect any machined surfaces.

It is better to have enough ideas for some of them to be wrong, than to be always right by having no ideas at all.
 
How many points are you using to lift the 800 lbs? The chain is drawn (sketched) as if it were coming in at a very significant angle - and that angle greatly increases the final load on the threads.

How deep are the tapped holes into the casting? What diameter tapped threads and what thread type? NOT NPT! Can you test pull the threads before putting your life (your hands or head) in the line when the casting breaks?

First, try to get the two (?) or four chains so they are coming in vertically to the tapped threads.

Don't EVER stand or walk or work UNDER the lifted engine, nor pass it over top of anything you can't replace.

Add safety (backup straps) as soon as possible after the engine is accessible so the safety straps are independent of the tapped holes: they should go from the hook, under the engine, then back to the hook.
 
I was thinking of using 4) 3/8 intake bolts 1/2-3/4 engagement, would be closer to a vertical lift. Now instead of using the chain against the intake can I use long bolts (2-3" up out of the casting), grade 8 with grade 8 washers? I pulled the engine with the heads off this way using the head bolts. The engine is assembled going in though. Many people use a carb plate which uses the 4) 5/16 carb bolts. My engine is a flathead, hence only 3 bolts for the carb.
 
Any other tapped holes on the engine block itself, accessory mounts or anything of that nature?

It is better to have enough ideas for some of them to be wrong, than to be always right by having no ideas at all.
 
No other holes, thats the problem. I have been told that if I use the tilter with those 4) 3/8 extended bolts they would shear off when I tilt the engine. I doubt it but not 100% sure.
 
Be smart about this. What's the consequences if you're scheme doesn't work? Damage to your engine, car, shop, self, wallet. Be safe, be correct in your method.

Use some lift rings like those found at Carr-Lane


and multiple chains of suitable strength. Or find a fab shop to make something suitable out of angle iron sections, with suitable holes drilled in it.

TygerDawg
Blue Technik LLC
Virtuoso Robotics Engineering
 
I don't see the bolt itself being the problem, but rather the forces being pulled through the bolt into that short of a thread engagement in the casting.

See, the first 1-1/2 female threads in the casting are going to provide almost no strength: they are half-cut, if that, and the typical hole begins slightly oversize at the opening. The first 1 to 1-1/2 male threads on the tip of the bolt are also understrength - since they are also not fully cut, so they won't engage fully into the female threads of the casting.

Net result is increased stress in the few engaged threads in the casting, right at the point where the stress from the entire bolt is trying to "pop" the casting metal out.
 
Racookpe, I don't believe hole locations are cast in place, I believe they're drilled, which would mean the full thread depth is your typical 75% thread. Not an expert in this field though, so I would digress to someone who knows for sure.

It is better to have enough ideas for some of them to be wrong, than to be always right by having no ideas at all.
 
Those hoist rings are awesome but 4 of them cost more then my engine. Here it is coming out with 4 head bolts.

engine.jpg
 
You might want to move this over to forum108.

Patricia Lougheed

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Please see FAQ731-376: Eng-Tips.com Forum Policies for tips on how to make the best use of the Eng-Tips Forums.
 
Yes, eye bolt (shoulder type)is the way to go with hooks on the end of the chain.Additionally, washer to fill in the vacant space created by the boss. That way the shoulder of the eye bolt will rest fully on the washers and not create as much bending action on the top of the boss.
 
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