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Engine designs that have problems 22

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enginesrus

Mechanical
Aug 30, 2003
1,013
Since the one thread I started, is headed way off topic, reason for this.
Engine designs that have problems or have had them.
I'll start with the 3 valve Triton.
This guy explains. Has data from others that deal with the same problems.

 
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Wait until California finds out how many face masks were sold without prop 65 warnings...
 
That crack is also on the other side of the hole, it looks like a combination of 2 different forces, and the lack of material cross section in 2 axis.
 
I don't think I can sue these guys for making the Siracha sauce too spicy and harming my throat.

20220717_184134_sjcyin.jpg



TTFN (ta ta for now)
I can do absolutely anything. I'm an expert! faq731-376 forum1529 Entire Forum list
 
If I can finish this it will probably keep me from getting cancer. It's working for COVID so far.

PXL_20220718_045324241_f5im8s.jpg


That's a fermented capsicum pubescens sauce.

I'll ship some ir anybody is interested.
 

TugBoatEng said:
That's a fermented capsicum pubescens sauce.

Did you make it from the Pubes or the Fruit? [tongue]

It better come with ingredients that are known to the State of California to cause cancer.

IRStuff said:
I don't think I can sue these guys for making the Siracha sauce too spicy and harming my throat.

D'oh, I should have done my own research before ingesting all that Sriracha. They warned me!
 
Seized spark plugs in aluminum heads. All such threads should be inserted like done with aircraft engines. Unless the spark plug threads have a corrosion resistant coating, seizure happens in time.
Using most of the normal anti seize compounds will not help, the heat can solidify some of them, and make it worse. There have been a lot of expensive repairs needed for something as simple as changing spark plugs.
In this throw away auto engine culture I'm surprised the spark plugs aren't just pressed in.
 
Anti-seize still works when it's solidified. It is a dry film lubricant, it only has the oil as a carrier to help it stock where you put it. Why people convinced themselves that anti-seize prevents corrosion I'll never know.

Good quality spark plugs do have a seize resistant coating on them.

Are you having issues with spark plugs seizing? I stripped one out on my very first engine. I've never had a problem since.

There are lots of things people may be doing to cause your experience. Spark plugs are seated plus 1/2 turn. This sets the crush in the washer. Do not use a torque wrench to install new plugs. If you're reusing the plugs, do not use the angle method as the washer is already crushed and you will strip the threads.
 
In all my years (decades) of dealing with spark plugs threaded into aluminium cylinder heads, I have experienced seized threads 0 times. I have experienced plugs that were tight coming out due to carbon build-up but this was due to use of non-OEM plugs that were about a thread or so too long (threads projecting into the combustion chamber).

I will grant that I have not owned, and will not ever own, a Ford 5.4 3-valve. (A friend of mine has one that belongs in a junkyard. He doesn't dare change the spark plugs, but there's so much else wrong with the truck, including terminal rust, that he's just driving it until it drops.)
 
There are lots of theory's out there about what temp the block needs to be when you change spark plugs.

I have never had an issue either or with glow plugs.

I have always loosened them off when the engine is hot then torqued the new ones up when it's cold on my own cars.

I don't think I have used anything other than NGK which could also be a factor.
 
The last time I changed any spark plugs was back in 2019 on my 2016 GMC Terrain, which turned-out to be a lot easier than I had expected. The dealer wanted something around $175. I found a YouTube video that showed the step-by-step procedure. Now this was a transverse-mounted 4-cylinder engine and the plugs were mounted straight out the top of the head. The coils were mounted on the plugs themselves, so you just popped them off and unscrewed the plugs. Now I did need to buy a new deep-socket made specifically for removing spark plugs (the only one I had in my toolbox was left over from my motorcycle days although I did have a 12-point deep socket that was the right size but wanted the dedicated 6-point with the rubber insert to hold the plug). That and four plugs, cost me a total of maybe $50. I already had a socket extension and a 24-inch breaker-bar so it was a quick, 40 minute or so job, from start to finish. Note that I used OEM ACDelco plugs and I did put anti-seize on the threads (it was recommended in the video) despite the fact that I didn't expect to change the plugs again, which I didn't before I traded-up to my current 2021 GMC Terrain.

John R. Baker, P.E. (ret)
Irvine, CA
Siemens PLM:
UG/NX Museum:

The secret of life is not finding someone to live with
It's finding someone you can't live without
 
JohnRBaker said:
Now this was a transverse-mounted 4-cylinder engine and the plugs were mounted straight out the top of the head. The coils were mounted on the plugs themselves, so you just popped them off and unscrewed the plugs.

Most I've dealt with are similar; although in the case of my Mother's Toyota Rav4 you had to take off the air box to get to at least one of the plugs which is simple but adds several minutes to an otherwise five minute job. Similarly, my previous "Daily Driver" (Mazdaspeed 3) had a top mounted intercooler that had to be removed to access the plug wells. In both cases the manufacturer specifically recommends high mileage (75k mi for the MS3) rated plugs, presumably for that reason. Prior to working on either of those vehicles I always bought the cheapest NGK plugs available and simply expected to change them much more frequently; I don't know if I've altered that opinion for my Miata as it has no obstructions to replacing the plugs.
 
Why is anyone responding to this stupidity anymore. All this thread consists of is one stupid claim after another seeming posted on purpose to cause a reaction.
 
Spark plugs have come a long way in recent decades, not only in terms of intervals but also maintenance issues. Back when plugs had bases machined from heavy stock they'd often rust solid into iron heads, need a ton of force to remove, and end up removing the threads from the head. I do quite a bit of antique vehicle and tractor restoration, and usually use a ton of heat, lube, and vibration to ease old plugs out. Today's plugs are ultra-soft and coated so there's rarely issues removing them, even after 100k+ they come out with so little force that stripping the head is rare anymore even when the plug's threads strip out.
 
Yes, with my 2016 GMC Terrain, there were at least two large plastic 'covers' that had to be removed but it was only a five minute task.

John R. Baker, P.E. (ret)
Irvine, CA
Siemens PLM:
UG/NX Museum:

The secret of life is not finding someone to live with
It's finding someone you can't live without
 
I lately have run into some badly seized spark plugs. All in aluminum, yes sometimes the normal tricks will work to remove them. But there is always the chance of breakage, then the length of time to complete the task increases dramatically.


( LionelHutz (Electrical)
20 Jul 22 15:14
Why is anyone responding to this stupidity anymore. All this thread consists of is one stupid claim after another seeming posted on purpose to cause a reaction.)

Wow !
 
You may have experienced seized plugs but your experience is likely the result of not following the manufacturer's recommendations and/or not using parts supplied by the manufacturer. This experience does not qualify as bad engine design.
 
What do you expect? You post a stupid baseless claim seeming to just get a reaction. Then, when there are no more comments you show up and post another stupid baseless claim just to stir the pot again.
 
Tugboat, this particular case is just trying to remove the plug for the first time ever from this engine. Never before changed plugs on this brand engine, I don't know the plug thread size, unsure about the cross section of material in that area of the plug, and the torque that would cause it to break off. Maybe someone else didn't follow the manufactures recommendations, or like many other things I have seen from the factory's maybe they messed up. I have seen in the past factory tightened 10mm bolts that required in excess of 150 lbft to loosen.
 
The N63 Hot Vee engine, many problem stories. Not very well thought out.
 
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